Beach-hopping in Baja California, Mexico | Travel

As effectively as prime seashore territory, the Baja peninsula has mountains, deserts and waters teeming with marine life. Our author hits the street in Mazatlán, vacation spot: Tijuana

Shine on … the seashore at Mazatlán, Mexico, the city is called the Pearl of the Pacific.
Photograph: Alamy

Almost 800 miles lengthy, Baja is scattered with unspoilt seashores and enchanting cities which can be extra inexpensive than the Americanised resorts at its southernmost tip. Complete with a thriving culinary scene and a flourishing wine area, this peninsula is right for exploration by street and sea.

Baja California map.

In two weeks it’s doable to take in winter solar and discover every thing the area has to supply, starting with a style of mainland Mexico in close by Mazatlán and ending in quickly evolving Tijuana. Air-conditioned buses cowl the route however there are inexpensive car-rental offers with firms corresponding to


Known because the Pearl of the Pacific, Mazatlán is a port within the western state of Sinaloa famed for its seafood and annual carnival (Eight-13 February this 12 months). With floats, fireworks, dancing, video games and pageants, this family-friendly event dates again to 1898, making it considered one of Mexico’s oldest carnivals. For a quieter expertise, admire the neoclassical and French baroque structure in Mazatlán’s historic centre, although adrenaline junkies might strive parasailing and soak up spectacular views of the town and its lengthy, palm-fringed seashore.

Carnival in Mazatlán, Mexico.

Carnival in Mazatlán. Photograph: Matt Mawson/Getty Images

Get a style of conventional Sinaloa with a cease in El Changuirongo (21 de Marzo 1326, Centro), a seafood joint near the seafront that serves aguachile, a fiery native speciality made with uncooked prawns seasoned with lime, chile, onion, cucumber and avocado. It’s additionally price visiting La Puntilla on the seafront to strive its signature dish, pescado zarandeado: freshly caught fish grilled with a coating of garlic and spices.

AeroMexico has return flights from Heathrow to Mexico City from round return £550 this winter, with a connection to Mazatlán costing an additional £60. Upon ending the street journey, flights from Tijuana again to Mexico City value one other £60 with AeroMexico or Volaris, or take the bus from throughout the border to San Diego (20 miles) or LA (140 miles) and return from there. Alternatively, Tui runs constitution flights from Gatwick to Puerto Vallarta, 270 miles south of Mazatlán, from round £500 return.

When in Mazatlán, I’ve typically stayed at Captain Moe’s (rooms from £72), a pet-friendly B&B run by a retired American couple who serve improbable breakfasts. If you favor a resort, then the well-regarded Quality Inn has doubles from £56 B&B.

After a number of days in Mazatlán take the in a single day ferry throughout the Sea of Cortez to La Paz. Baja Ferries has departures each Wednesday, Friday and Sunday night at £50pp, together with a meal and fundamental seating. A cabin with 4 beds and a personal lavatory prices an extra £34, whereas there’s a £128 cost for bringing a automobile. The journey takes 13 hours.

La Paz

A paddle around Isla Espiritu Santo, La Paz, Mexico.

A paddle round Isla Espiritu Santo. Photograph: Stuart Westmorland/Getty Images

A laid-back seaside city with an arid local weather, La Paz is a less expensive, extra stress-free various to the spring-break resorts of Los Cabos, additional south. A tour to Isla Espiritu Santo, considered one of 244 desert islands that kind a Unesco biosphere reserve, is beneficial. Covered in cacti and set towards turquoise waters, that is an uninhabited, alien-looking panorama. Tours additionally take within the adjoining Isla Partida, home to Playa Ensenada Grande, a wonderful cove of white sand and, in my view, a contender for Mexico’s most stunning seashore.

It doesn’t take lengthy to see why French explorer Jacques Cousteau dubbed the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium”. On my strategy to the islands, dolphins leapt alongside our boat and sea lions peered by its glass backside. Then a whale shark, the world’s largest fish, surfaced a number of metres away. Assured by our information that these giants are innocent, I grabbed a snorkel and jumped overboard for a more in-depth look. Its nice tail fin appeared earlier than me. Awestruck, I managed to path the shark for a number of moments earlier than it disappeared into the depths.

Two women walk along the beach at Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico.

Beach at Todos Santos. Photograph: Getty Images

To replenish after an extended day at sea, go to unfussy Mc-Fisher, which serves glorious fish tacos, together with marlin, swordfish and manta ray. As for lodging, HBlue Hotel (doubles from £45 B&B) is comfy and centrally positioned, with a rooftop pool and bar the place you may watch the sundown over the waterfront.

Before persevering with up the coast, surfers will wish to take a day journey to the windswept city of Todos Santos on the Pacific aspect of the peninsula. Home to a few of Mexico’s finest breaks, the encompassing seashores are perfect for newcomers and superior surfers.


A 220-mile journey north of La Paz lies Loreto, a quaint city sandwiched between the Sea of Cortez and the Sierra de la Giganta. Founded in 1697 by a Jesuit missionary intent on evangelising the nomadic indigenous inhabitants, Loreto is the oldest settlement on the peninsula. It is considered one of 111 Pueblos Mágicos (magical cities) that Mexico has recognised for his or her pure magnificence, cultural worth or historic significance.

Beach at Loreto Bay, Loreto, Mexico.

Beach at Loreto Bay. Photograph: Alamy

Loreto’s Museo de las Misiones homes a set of non secular paintings, weapons, instruments and crafts however probably the most iconic vestige of the colonial period is the Viggé Biaundó Mission, an hour’s drive south-west of city. Built in 1699, this stone chapel is remarkably effectively preserved and there’s even a gnarled, 300-year-old olive tree nonetheless standing in its gardens.

Loreto’s seashores are quiet, with attractive views and palm-thatched gazebos for shade. Popular actions embody fishing, kayaking, scuba-diving, birdwatching, climbing the encompassing hills or just strolling the city’s cobbled streets and pristine waterfront.

Almejas Conchó, a palm-roofed shack famend for its chocolate clams, is without doubt one of the finest locations to eat. Named after the color of their shells, the clams are a neighborhood delicacy. The menu additionally options ceviche, prawn cocktails and seafood burritos.

Las Cabanas de Loreto, Loreto, Mexico.

The pool at Las Cabanas de Loreto

Las Cabañas de Loreto has well-equipped studio cabins that sleep as much as 4 for £78 an evening (three-night minimal keep). For these planning a shorter go to, Hacienda Suites is a mock-colonial resort with an inviting pool in its central courtyard and air-conditioned doubles from £56 an evening.

Between them, ABC (£25) and Aguila (£32) supply half a dozen coach companies from La Paz to Loreto daily. The journey takes about 5 hours.

San Ignacio

Halfway up the peninsula, San Ignacio is a palm oasis city within the desert. Home to about 700 folks, the village is beside a lake fed by contemporary springs and one of many area’s few rivers. Its clustered date palms and citrus orchards make a refreshing change from their barren environment.

San Ignacio’s lagoon is a sanctuary and breeding ground for the grey whale. A grey whale surfaces on a blue sky day.

San Ignacio’s lagoon is a sanctuary and breeding floor for the gray whale. Photograph: Getty Images

The space’s important attraction is the San Ignacio lagoon, which serves as a winter sanctuary, nursery and breeding floor for jap Pacific gray whales. The whales migrate from northern Alaska yearly to mate and provides start within the lagoon’s heat, shallow waters. These monumental creatures typically search human contact, with moms and calves permitting small boatloads of vacationers to the touch their barnacle-covered pores and skin. Between December and April is the perfect time to expertise this.

It’s additionally price taking a visit into the mountains to see the traditional cave work in websites such because the Cueva del Ratón. Depicting people, deer, hares and mountain lions, these Unesco-listed work are regarded as at the very least 2,000 years outdated. Kuyima, a neighborhood tour operator, provides a number of excursions to see the whales and cave work (from £68pp).

The La Huerta hotel, San Ignacio, Mexico.

The La Huerta resort, San Ignacio

La Huerta, a brand new resort with immaculate grounds and spacious doubles (from £34 an evening), is a good lodging choice. Elsewhere, Ignacio Springs B&B has a collection of yurts from £51 an evening. It’s run by a Canadian couple and visitors could make free use of its kayaks. If you fancy a break from Mexican seafood, Tootsie’s Bar and Grill serves barbecue ribs, pizza and a spread of vegan and vegetarian choices.

Aguila runs two every day coach companies from Loreto to San Ignacio for £24. It’s a five-hour journey.


Beach at Ensenada, Mexico.

Beach at Ensenada, Mexico. Photograph: Alamy

The 10-hour drive from San Ignacio to Ensenada takes in big boulders, twisted cacti and bushes straight out of a Dr Seuss ebook. Aguila has in a single day bus companies for £62 however when you’re driving it’s finest to travel by day and refuel everytime you cross an rare petrol station.

Ensenada is round 60 miles south of the US border and the gateway to Mexico’s booming wine area, the Guadalupe valley. Dirt roads wind by the rolling hills the place greater than 100 wineries are scattered alongside a rising variety of upscale eating places and eco-lodges. Dozens of wine excursions function from Ensenada, whereas Uber just lately launched its personal service, charging £20 for a spherical journey, plus £Eight for each hour that your driver waits as you tour the country vineyards.

Vineyard at Adobe Guadalupe Winery in Ensenada, Mexico.

Vineyard at Adobe Guadalupe Winery in Ensenada. Photograph: Sherry Smith/Getty Images

Ensenada can be on the forefront of “Baja Med”, a burgeoning culinary motion that mixes conventional components with Mediterranean and Asian influences. Restaurants corresponding to Finca Altozano, Corazón de Tierra and La Esperanza are trendsetters, with typical dishes together with braised octopus, tempura fish tacos, chipotle oysters and beetroot carpaccio. Ensenada’s San Diego-influenced craft beer scene is flourishing, too, with the Wendlandt and Aguamala brewpubs amongst its highlights.

The Coral & Marina (doubles from £72, room solely) is a seafront resort with ocean-view balconies and an award-winning restaurant that pairs the most recent Baja Med innovations with native wines. A less expensive various is Posada El Rey Sol (doubles from £56), a colonial-style boutique resort.

Multiple operators run buses from Ensenada to the border metropolis of Tijuana each 30 minutes for about £7. Most leases will allow you to drop your automobile at Tijuana’s airport.

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