NEW YORK • Can Marc Jacobs nonetheless proceed to make his mark in trend? On the floor, it appears nothing is unravelling from the seams.
After all, when the movers and shakers collect tonight on the Brooklyn Museum for the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) awards, he’s once more up for the highest prize – womenswear designer of the 12 months, as he has been yearly since 2013, profitable in 2016.
But that nod comes as a puzzle to anybody following his profession carefully previously few years.
There was a time when he attracted a brand new city girl, one who combined downtown angle and uptown glamour. Now, there’s a sense that he has lost his approach.
Last 12 months, whereas responding to questions concerning the business surroundings in the course of the United States Donald Trump presidency, Mr Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH, which owns a controlling stake within the Marc Jacobs trend home, mentioned: “I’m more concerned about (the label) than the US President.”
Mr Luca Solca, head of luxurious items analysis at Exane BNP Paribas, estimated that Marc Jacobs had been shedding greater than US$60 million (S$80 million) yearly for the previous few years.
The company has additionally closed dozens of shops in Europe and New York.
Then, there’s the exit of Mr Robert Duffy, thought to be the “driving force” behind the label’s rise.
Over the a long time, he was Jacobs’ business associate and his tireless champion and, in 1997, orchestrated LVMH’s funding in Marc Jacobs.
But he stepped down from his main position in 2015.
For greater than twenty years, ever since he dressed fashions in flannel for his 1992 grunge assortment for Perry Ellis, Jacobs had been thought to be essentially the most thrilling American designer of his era.
In 1997, he took on the position of inventive director at Louis Vuitton. With the highly effective backing of LVMH, Jacobs and Mr Duffy took the Marc Jacobs model global.
But Jacobs’ erratic behaviour – together with saying he was getting into rehabilitation for drug and alcohol abuse, a really public relationship with a former porn star and by chance posting a photograph of his naked backside to Instagram – continued to boost considerations about his potential to run a big company.
In 2014, Jacobs stepped down from his position at Louis Vuitton after 16 years, ostensibly to permit him to focus on his personal label forward of a deliberate preliminary public providing.
For years, he appeared to know precisely what folks needed after which, fairly abruptly, he appeared to not know.
Some pundits mentioned the company had lengthy lacked a robust inventive director, somebody who can translate Jacobs’ imaginative and prescient into precise expression for the design staff.
That position was occupied efficiently by Venetia Scott, however she left in 2015.
As for Jacobs himself, he seems tired of channelling fashionable tradition.
“I am so appalled by the whole social media thing. I don’t get it, it doesn’t appeal to me,” he informed British Vogue in 2015.
His runway exhibits are nonetheless extremely anticipated although.
People go to pay their respects to a genius and hope to be wowed like so many occasions earlier than.
But the occasions have additionally taken on a poignant air of irrelevance – the garments really feel disconnected from .
Is Jacobs a has-been then?
Industry marketing consultant Fern Mallis, previously govt director of the CFDA, acknowledged what many individuals appear to consider about Jacobs – that regardless of his current struggles, he’s somebody you may by no means rely out.
“His talent is too great,” she mentioned.
“He’s a risk taker. He doesn’t really care. That’s pretty fabulous.”