On the path of wolves in Belarus | Travel

Dawn within the Naliboki forest: mist over the marshes and bats skittering in birch bushes. Above the clearing, stars are fading right into a pale sky. We’re in deepest God-knows-where in one in every of Europe’s largest wild forests. Zoologist Vadim Sidorovich crouches within the half-light finding out the monitor; I’m barely respiratory, so intense is the silence. A brown bear, Vadim says. He traces a finger over the prints of its entrance paws, and – two ovals – its again paws. I can see the claw marks. A dozen bears roam this a part of the forest.


But we’re probably not right here for bears: 30 minutes later we’re gazing at a meadow haloed in golden mild, with roe deer grazing in lengthy grass. This is wolf territory. The 2,000 sq km Naliboki, in central Belarus, additionally has one of many world’s highest densities of lynx, elk, bison, storks and eagles. Tour operator Explore’s new lengthy weekend to Belarus, nonetheless, is all about wolves.

After a day within the capital, Minsk, guests spend two nights with Vadim and his household – analysis assistant spouse Irina, their youngsters and their canines, one a half-breed wolf – at a forest eco-station. It feels just like the home of a fairytale woodsman, with handmade terracotta tableware and furnishings made from pine logs. Wifi? Even the cell reception is sketchy. “I like peasant life,” Vadim says. “People in this forest two centuries ago were happier than a billionaire.”

A former college professor, Vadim stop academia 15 years in the past for analysis within the Naliboki. (His weblog, Zoology by Vadim Sidorovich, is fascinating if area of interest studying.) Wolves are his speciality. Around 40 migrate into the forest from late September to breed, quadruple that quantity by late January. Shy, nocturnal and swift, wolves make elusive topics – a part of their fascination, I assume. For Vadim, “to see one is God’s gift”.

Naust Eco Station, deep within the Naliboki Forest, has a fairytale-like really feel

That afternoon, we stroll deep into the mossy forest. As we peer into deserted dens, Vadim chats about wolves as if they’re outdated associates: why a mom rotates cubs between 30 or so dens; how most cubs are killed by lynx, which see wolves as rivals; that pack members take turns to cub-sit.

We’re en path to his motion-activated cameras. Vadim’s hoping for pictures of a wolf and her cubs that he’s been monitoring – annually fewer wolves breed right here. I’m hoping to quell a creeping unease. Brooding, preternaturally nonetheless, the forest has closed round us.

In western Europe, big, dense forests come loaded with terror – like Red Riding Hood or Hansel and Gretel, you enter at your peril. In Belarus, they see forests otherwise: the Naliboki is a larder stocked with berries and mushrooms. It’s additionally a refuge, the place second world warfare partisans hid when Belarus was crushed between Russian and German troops.

It nonetheless is a refuge, actually. Vadim says: “For me, the forest is like home for a child. It is a warm feeling. Here, you forget about authorities. You live like the grasses grow.”

By the tip of my keep I’m undecided who wants the Naliboki extra – the wildlife or him.

A dozen bears roam the forest near Vadim’s home

A dozen bears roam the forest close to Vadim’s home

After two hours we attain the cameras. Images present a bear crossing a stream, a lynx on a fallen trunk, an elk and her calf, a truffling wild boar and there, lastly, a silver-brown wolf, trotting away. But no cubs. Vadim is fearful that the forest now not helps cubs. On successive jeep safaris we see capercaillie, foxes, deer, white cranes and storks, and all types of raptors. Vadim factors out a tree scratched by wolf claws. But cubs? No signal.

On our final night, Vadim leads me alongside a swampy channel. You can inform that bison are shut: grass the place they’ve rolled appears prefer it’s been rotovated; bushes are tufted with black hair the place they’ve scratched. There’s a scorching, musky animal stink. As we flip a nook there’s a rumble of hooves and the snapping of branches as one thing giant smashes away. It stops. Among the bushes, I could make out two bison gazing us. It’s magical, like one thing from a dream or a fable.

A bit just like the Naliboki itself, actually. Back in Minsk, it appears implausible that so distinct a world exists. If this journey has an issue it’s that it’s pitched as a wolf-watching holiday. Fail to see one and also you may depart dissatisfied. Yet the Naliboki is a transformational place. Out there in mobile-free God-knows-where, days swell, and silent, inky nights thrill. To keep some time is to understand that life’s pauses are as enriching as its adventures.

There’s an electronic mail ready for me in Minsk. It’s from Vadim – a photograph from that motion-camera. I click on it open. In a reasonably birch clearing stand two wolves – and round them a litter of 10 gambolling cubs.

• The journey was offered by Explore, whose five-day wolf-watching journey, over weekends in February, March, September, October and December, prices from £969, together with flights, lodging, transfers and guiding

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