10 of the very best eating places and meals stalls in Paris’s coated markets | Travel

Paris has not had a single central meals market since Les Halles was demolished within the 1970s. But there are nonetheless flourishing historic coated markets serving neighbourhoods throughout metropolis. Apart from promoting tempting cheeses, charcuterie and wines to take home, these bustling, pleasant marchés additionally have an amazing selection of informal stalls to eat at, more energizing and extra fairly priced than a lot of the surrounding eating places. They are additionally an excellent introduction to the multi-ethnic face of Paris, with Lebanese or Portuguese specialities, Moroccan tagines or Japanese delicacies, spicy West African dishes or vegetarian burgers.

Marché Couvert Beauvau

Cheese stall at Marché Couvert Beauvau

What everybody calls the Marché d’Aligre is definitely a mixture of three very completely different markets. The rue d’Aligre is a raucous morning avenue market, providing among the least expensive fruit and veg on the town, and consists of the Boucherie Les Provinces, the place Christophe Dru has reworked half of his butcher store right into a meat restaurant. Spread out over the Place d’Aligre is an anarchic flea market, whereas overlooking all the things is the stately Beauvau coated market. The constructing dates from 1843 and has survived two latest fires, with renovations nonetheless occurring right this moment. It’s the right place to stock up on goodies to take home, from duck rillettes and game pâté to pungent époisses cheese. Sit at a desk at seafood stall La Marée Beauvau to style freshly shucked oysters (€7.50 for six), or attempt Fromagerie Comptoir, which has simply opened a lunch counter the place prospects can order a number of cheeses, attempt considered one of 150 craft beers or carry over charcuterie or smoked salmon from adjoining stalls.
• Tue-Sat 9am-1pm, 4pm-7.30pm, Sun 9am-1.30pm, Place d’Aligre, 75012

Marché Saint-Germain

L’Avant Comptoir du Marché, Marche Saint-Germain.

L’Avant Comptoir du Marché

This grand stone market is definitely a latest replica of the unique 1813 constructing, and its 2016 reopening introduced this romantic Left Bank neighbourhood to life once more. While the inside is stuffed with fruit and vegetable stalls and an excellent artisan cheesemonger, the surface arcades are extra mall than marché, with an Apple Store, a Uniqlo, even a Marks & Spencer meals corridor. Fortunately, there’s additionally L’Avant Comptoir du Marché, an irresistible wine and tapas bar created by chef Yves Camdeborde, the king of French bistronomie. An enormous crimson plastic pig dangles over diners, over 50 wines are offered by the glass from €three, and the handfuls of small plates contemporary from the open kitchen vary from €Four-€10. The creative combos embody cod, spinach, chorizo and feta; salmon, sheep’s yogurt and cherry tomatoes; and fried pig’s ear with pickled crimson onion and rocket.
• Tue-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-1.30pm, Four-6 rue Lobineau, 75006

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Corossol, Marché des Enfants Rouge, Paris


At the sting of the stylish Marais quarter, the oldest coated market in Paris, originating in 1628, is well missed from the road, hidden as it’s behind two nameless metallic gates. Once inside, you enter a teeming maze of meals stalls with crowds consuming at noisy communal tables. Les Enfants Rouges has actually grow to be extra meals court docket than meals market, and the dazzling selection of delicacies consists of tasty Japanese bento packing containers at Chez Taeko, traditional French bistrot fare at L’Estaminet, and natural and vegetarian burgers at Au Coin Bio. The funkiest spot is Corossol, the place a storm of Afro-Caribbean and Cajun delicacies (mains from €10) isserved to a background of zouk and reggae music. The most mouth-watering dishes are displayed at Le Traiteur Marocain, a cornucopia of couscous and tagines (from €9), pastilla and sticky truffles and sweetmeats.
• Tue-Sat Eight.30am-Eight.30pm, Sun Eight.30am-5pm, 39 rue de Bretagne, 75003

Marché Couvert Saint-Quentin

Exterior of Marche Couvert Saint-Quentin, Paris

Marché Couvert Saint-Quentin

Walking distance from Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, this imposing coated market is constructed within the traditional 19th-century Baltard type of crimson brick, wooden, glass and iron girders. Right within the centre is the spit-and-sawdust Bistro Saint-Quentin, good for a glass of wine earlier than deciding the place to eat. This market has tables and chairs, so consumers can decide up smoked saucisson, camembert and roquefort, a crusty loaf, some oysters and a bottle of wine, then set out a picnic. Alternatively, seize a stool on the counter of Portuguese delicatessen Chez Silvana, the place the scrumptious plats du jour (€10-16) vary from spicy stuffed calamari, to suckling pig or large prawns flambeed in whisky.
• Tue-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-1.30pm, 85 bis Boulevard Magenta, 75010

Marché Couvert Saint-Martin

Chez Silvana, Marche Couvert Saint-Quentin

Chez Silvana

The unique white stone arch nonetheless stands on the entrance of this small, cosy market constructed within the 1850s, when Baron Haussmann was remodeling the city panorama of Paris. A brand new Cambodian streetfood stall, Ama Dao, presents wok-fried greens and noodles, whereas meals truck Le Réfectoire has opened a everlasting counter serving juicy burgers and French-style sizzling canine (from €10). It’s troublesome to not be tempted by the contemporary seafood displayed at Les Viviers de Noirmoutier, with its half-a-dozen tables and chairs in faux driftwood. Grab a seat and feast on a large seafood platter of prawns, clams, crab, langoustines, whelks and winkles (from €25), or only a dozen oysters (€9), accompanied by a bottle of wine and cheeses from the superb choice on the adjoining “fromager-caviste”, Laurent Bouvet.
• Tue-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 9am-2pm, 31 rue du Château d’Eau, 75010

Marché Couvert de Passy

Exterior of Marche Couvert de Passy, Paris

Marche Couvert de Passy

Everyone appears to know one another on this small, white-tiled 1950s market within the coronary heart of stylish, residential Paris.Among florists, butchers and natural greens, it boasts an outpost of considered one of France’s most well-known cheesemongers: Androuet. The market is dominated by one stallholder, Antoine Maillard of Les Galets d’Etretat. He runs Café d’Etretat close to the doorway, the place locals come for his or her morning espresso and ache au chocolat, in addition to, a bit of manner in, Passitalia, an Italian deli with prosciutto, gorgonzola or do-it-yourself lasagne (€10) that may be eaten at its counter. At the far finish of the market, Antoine additionally has a formidable fishmonger, with tables the place consumers can take pleasure in not simply seafood however inventive dishes of the day (€11), comparable to chunky sea bass steak with julienned greens, wrapped and steamed en papillote.
• Tue-Sat 8am-1pm, 4pm-7pm, Sun 8am-1pm, Place de Passy, 75016

Marché Couvert des Ternes

Chez Kim, Marche Couvert des Ternes, Paris

Chez Kim

Even although the key vacationer sights of the Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées are simply not far away, the tranquil Ternes neighbourhood nonetheless has its personal coated market and a vibrant avenue market in rue Poncelet. The favorite rendezvous for espresso or lunch is the pavement terrace of the Bistrot du Marché. Just don’t count on coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon, as a result of Chez Kim, as it’s also identified, has been run for the previous 10 years by a Korean household. Although quiche lorraine continues to be on the menu, the very best deal is the normal spicy bibimbap with 5 Asian greens, rice, a fried egg and portion of squid, rooster or pork, all for €11.90 together with a glass of wine.
• Tue-Sat 8am-1pm, 4pm-7.30pm, Sun 8am-1pm, Eight bis rue Lebon 75017

Marché Couvert des Batignolles

Edgar, Marche Couvert des Batignolles, Paris

Edgar delicatessen

For an genuine slice of life within the untouristy 17th arrondissement, head for its energetic coated market. Founded in 1846, it now occupies an nameless 1979 constructing. Nonetheless, the gritty Break Bar, with nice music and tables on the pavement, is something however nameless: it’s overseen by genial barman/prepare dinner Jeff, who serves a superb chardonnay from Corbières for €three a glass and rustles up thick, juicy steaks (€13) or tasty sausage and mash (€Eight). For extra eclectic meals contained in the market, select between the no-frills Japanese homecooking of Onigiriya, pizza and pasta at Basilico and, better of all, Edgar, an excellent Lebanese delicatessen. Buy a €1 packet of 5 flatbreads and select from the rating of meze; tabbouleh, taramasalata, grilled aubergines, fig tapenade, falafel, kefta and succulent Turkish delight. Priced by weight, every carton prices round €Four.
• Tue-Fri Eight.30am-1pm, three.30pm-8pm, Sat, Sun Eight.30am-2pm, 96 bis rue Lemercier, 75017

Marché Couvert La Chapelle

Marche Couvert La Chapelle, Paris

Marché Couvert La Chapelle

Far from the 18th arrondissement’s touristy Sacré-Coeur and Montmartre, this 1883 market is in a vibrant West African neighbourhood that’s quietly turning into trendy, with its pure wine bars and barista cafes. The cobbled streets surrounding the market, which is often known as the Marché de l’Olive, are lined with cool bars and French bistrots, whereas inside there’s an enormous selection of ethnic eateries. Three younger Franco-Thais – Danai, Anusorn and Nisarat – have simply opened Bangkok Bistronomie, the place a bowl of pad thai noodles or inexperienced rooster curry prices €Eight.60, whereas at Délices d’Alissa, the traditional Senegalese favourites of yassa, mafe and tiep (varieties of stew) are priced from €7-€9. The pleasant Caribbean Food stall lives as much as its title with hearty €10 parts of Guinea/Guiana and French West Indies dishes like cassava or plantain gratin, or piquant fish stew.
• Tue-Fri 8am-7.30pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Sun 8am-1.30pm, 10 rue de l’Olive, 75018

La Halle Secrétan

Wanted, La Halle Secretan, Paris

Wanted pizzeria

Classed an official historic monument, the Secrétan market corridor reopened two years in the past after a prolonged restoration of its imposing 1868 construction. The inside is spectacular, with a hovering ceiling lined with crisscrossing wood beams however, sadly, the entire area has been given over to Les 5 Fermes, an natural grocery store, somewhat than the normal meals stalls that had been right here for over a century. In the type of a “marché for the future”, it additionally has a fitness center and style retailer, in addition to upmarket butcher-restaurant Hugo Desnoyer, whose costs are past the pockets of most native residents. Fortunately, there’s Wanted, a hip however eminently reasonably priced wood-fired pizzeria, whose pastas and pizzas value €12, and which presents brunch and DJ units on the weekend.
• Tue-Thu Eight.30am-7.30pm, Fri-Sat Eight.30am-8pm, Sun Eight.30am-2pm (eating places open within the night), 29 Avenue Secrétan, 75019

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