A wander close to Ronda: Spain’s empty quarter | Travel

A goat farmer instructed me nobody swims within the lake at Zahara de la Sierra as a result of it’s filled with fish with crocodile heads. Is that why I’m the one individual in 128 sq km of cool water on a highly regarded day? I later study that this artifical lake (embalse), the mountain ranges to the south of it, and the cliffs, gorges, flower meadows, forests and caves throughout are merely, for probably the most half, empty. Spain has a surplus of staggeringly stunning wild areas, however this one – nearly 54,000 hectares north-east of Cadiz, overflowing into the province of Málaga – grew to become the nation’s first Unesco biosphere reserve in 1977. And Sierra de Grazalema grew to become Andalucía’s first parque pure in 1984.


Most international guests, myself included, uncover the park by chance whereas driving from Ronda to Seville, do a double tackle recognizing the lake and the fairytale village of Zahara, wrapped round its crag like a wonky marriage ceremony cake, slam on the brakes, make a detour, and find yourself staying – generally for a lifetime.

I test right into a casa rural at an outdated olive mill on the sting of a village referred to as Molino el Vinculo, eat jamón and goat’s cheese at a neighborhood bar, think about residing right here and, subsequent morning, wake to the sound of cockerels, wooden pigeons … and puffing.

Grazalema. Photograph: Alamy

The heavy respiratory comes from three runners and two cyclists heading up the mountain, a 600-metre climb over 11km of buttressed switchbacks to Puerta de las Palomas cross at 1,189 metres. I observe (by automotive, with burning clutch), heading for Grazalema village, 30 minutes to the south. I pause on the prime of the cross to survey the park laid out beneath: verdant valleys, limestone pinnacles, pinsapo (Spanish fir) forests, extra mountains. As I slam the automotive door, a stag jolts away down the scree.

Grazalema is overshadowed by some critical peaks, most notably Peñon Grande. This is mountain climbing nation: lots of the park’s 20 official trails begin right here, and most go upwards. Clearly it’s a weekend playground for Lycra-clad sporty Spaniards – the cafes in Plaza de España are filled with canines, youngsters, bikes and other people doing stretches.

Following a map from the vacationer workplace, I head up the one-hour Llanos del Endrinal path, however inadvertently stray on to an extended loop, and wander puzzled by the boulder-strewn plains of Puerto de las Presillas for a while. The climb is abundantly rewarded by a stretch of cool pine forest, and an hour mendacity flat on a slab of rock, encircled by lofty peaks the place ibex edge alongside ledges. Below me is a lush flower-filled valley, and above me are swirls of choughs.

Garganta Verde.

Garganta Verde. Photograph: Alamy

To British ears, one of many park’s claims to fame might clarify its lack of tourists: it’s one in all Spain’s wettest locations. The rain falls primarily in winter, although. It additionally has Europe’s largest colony of griffon vultures, with a nesting web site in a deep gorge simply outdoors Zahara, the Garganta Verde.

The path to the bottom of the gorge is one in all 4 the place entry is restricted. Even with one of many 15 permits a day issued by the park workplace in my backpack, I can’t consider I’m allowed right here alone. It’s like a Spielberg movie set after the crew has knocked off. As hefty vultures waft throughout the void, I hear their wings flap. Aside from that, the tender tack and clatter of a rock fall and bursts of bell-clear birdsong, the primeval gorge is eerily quiet. I slide down boulders on the backside and, edging into the mouth of the Cueva de la Ermita, cautiously study the underworld.

If I used to be into caving, canyoning, and spelunking I’d be in luck: the park is made from porous limestone, and an underground world of interconnected tunnels and swimming pools lies beneath. (Actually, it’s the place for exhilarating bodily stuff normally: a significant centre for paragliding, mountaineering, excessive triathlons, and critical driving.) But the caves are additionally of historic curiosity. In Cueva de la Pileta within the japanese part of the park, simply above Benaoján and beneath Montejaque, a lantern-lit tour reveals stalagmites, stalactites and work of fish, goats and stick males, some relationship again 25,000 years.

Village street and cafes Zahara de la Sierra.

Village avenue and cafes Zahara de la Sierra. Photograph: Alamy

Despite a smattering of strolling excursions and coach events, Sierra de Grazalema feels fairly unknown. Yet it has been inhabited for a really very long time. It is affected by indicators of occupation, from megalithic tombs to Roman murals, necropolises and roads – the calzada romana to Ubrique, additional to the south, is among the hottest hikes within the park. The villages themselves, settled by Berbers, conquered by Christians (some invaded by Napoleonic forces), are constructed on layers of civilisations.

Back in Zahara, the bars below the orange timber are well-patronised: neighbours catching up after an hour aside; older males in berets and shades ingesting Pedro Ximénez; youngsters on their telephones, sharing tapas; small boys with firecrackers; a desk of touring cyclists learning maps. There’s a gaggle of older girls up by the cemetery, gazing out over the lake.

The view over the reservoir from Zahara de La Sierra.

The view over the reservoir from Zahara de La Sierra. Photograph: Blanchi Costela/Getty Images

Ironically, the jewel of this pure park is a dam, constructed simply over 20 years in the past – some villagers nonetheless name it the pantano, or swamp. But issues are altering, slowly. Younger villagers decamp to the grassy lawns and icy waters of La Playita recreation space by the lakeshore south of Zahara on summer season days. On the north shore, a younger native couple, Javier and Maria, run El Mogote, an elegant cafe and nautical centre with kayaks to hire and the world’s greatest view. Something related additional south may open subsequent summer season. Or not. For now although, as I stand on the water’s edge, it feels pleasantly wild. Croc-headed fish or no, I soar in.
• Permits from Sierra de Grazalema pure park Visitor Centre, El Bosque,

Where to remain

The terrace at Tambor del Llano, Grazalema.

The terrace at Tambor del Llano, Grazalema.

In Zahara de la Sierra, Al Lago Hotel Restaurant has doubles from €115 B&B ( All areas of the park are accessible from Zahara, however different good bases embrace: in Benaoján, Molino del Santo (doubles from €115 B&B,; in Villaluenga del Rosario, the normal Hostal La Posada, (doubles from €60 B&B,; 5km from Grazalema, Tambor del Llano (doubles from round €70 B&B, affords rooms in a wild property setting. One of only a few campsites – with cabins – is Tajo Rodillo in Grazalema (

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