Bite the bullet prepare and head to Japan | Travel

Getting to eat the great things in Tokyo generally is a problem. The drawback isn’t discovering the correct locations. The concierge group on the metropolis’s lodges work more durable than most making restaurant reservations, and ours on the Mandarin Oriental is not any exception. They have despatched us to a bustling, wood-lined izakaya, or meals pub, down a facet road within the metropolis’s Akasaka district. Here, smoke pirouettes from the grills within the open kitchens, the beer, just like the air-con, is fantastically chilled and the tables are crowded with locals.

The drawback is that the place is so very native, so very Tokyo, that fairly moderately nobody right here speaks English, and we converse no Japanese aside from the nice manners of “hello” and “thank you”. Or so we expect. Suddenly our 18-year-old son, Eddie, is sorting the order. He can do numbers and some different phrases, sufficient to get an omakase request – roughly, the chef’s selection – beneath method. We are served blocks of silken tofu beneath umami-rich tangles of dried fish, plump, gossamer-skinned gyoza and tempura-ed fritters of sweetcorn. Thanks partly to Eddie, we do eat the great things.

Quicksilver: the Shinkansen high-speed prepare leaves Tokyo. Photograph: Alamy

We shouldn’t have been shocked. After all, the journey was primarily based on our two teenage boys’ engagement with Japanese tradition from London. Eddie and his 14-year-old brother, Dan, have lengthy been armpit deep within the stuff. They have watched limitless anime, learn manga and performed the video games. They know an excellent bowl of ramen from the merely mediocre. It must be no shock that Eddie has picked up among the language. I recommend to my different half that as an alternative of our traditional holiday lazing by a European pool, we must be intrepid and collectively discover the actual Japan earlier than our sons are too previous to need something to do with us. Pat appears to be like on the climate forecast. “You know it’s stinking hot in Japan in August,” she says.

I nod and say: “But ramen… I have my priorities.”

Exploring Japan shouldn’t be easy. In the most important cities, many indicators and bulletins are in English, however an terrible lot isn’t. The tradition is deceptively advanced, and a little bit of assist can save a number of time and anxiousness. We have a tour company known as Inside Japan on our facet. They have sorted the itinerary, supplying us with pre-loaded playing cards for the Tokyo metro, together with Japan Rail passes which allow us to take the famed bullet trains from Tokyo to Kyoto, and eventually into the forest round Mount Fuji.

They safe us tickets for a sumo match and one morning we rattle out throughout the seemingly limitless low-rise Tokyo suburbs to an area gymnasium, the place we’re among the many only a few non-Japanese in a crowd of 1000’s. Huge, melon-bellied males wrestle one another for mere seconds amid the slap of chest on chest, in between prolonged bouts of formality and chanting. It’s totally compelling.

Wood works: an izakaya in Tokyo.

Wood works: an izakaya in Tokyo. Photograph: Alamy

Naturally, we go to Akihabara, or “Electric Town”, a decent knot of high-rise streets again within the centre of Tokyo stuffed with gadget retailers and video game arcades. I assume will probably be a tribute to the innovative and there’s a lot of that. But the boys, who of their bedrooms have quietly been turning the video games of my youth into the stuff of their retro cool, take us again into our personal pasts. On the fifth ground of a multi-layered, tinkling video arcade, we problem one another to video games of Bomberman and Street Fighter II circa 1991. I lose. Repeatedly. Later, Eddie returns on his personal – he’s fully untangled the Gordian Knot that’s the Tokyo subway – and comes again with armfuls of manga merch. (He has additionally downloaded a language app, and his Japanese vocabulary is increasing every day.)

Dan picks up a chunk of Akihabra’s most interesting, a Nintendo GameCube from the early noughties full with a replica of Super Mario Sunshine, which joins us on the Shinkansen or bullet prepare to Kyoto. It doesn’t matter that the whip-fierce tail of Typhoon Shanshan crashed into Tokyo the evening earlier than, slapping town with excessive winds and torrential rain. The trains maintain to stereotype and run not simply to the minute however to the second.

Akihabara in Tokyo

‘Naturally, we go to Akihabara, or “Electric Town”, a decent knot of high-rise streets again within the centre of Tokyo stuffed with gadget retailers and video game arcades.’ Photograph: David Aparicio Pasamontes/Getty Images

In Kyoto, one of many nation’s cultural and historic centres, we have a conventional townhouse, or machiya, simply up the hill from the imposing Hokanji Temple Pagoda. It’s a small, wood-built, two-storey affair with a window searching on to a decorative backyard and probably the most scrumptious air-conditioning. Pat wasn’t fallacious: it’s 37C in Kyoto, with humidity to match. By day, within the company of a information, Pat and I try the shrines and pagodas, constructing a sweat climbing the myriad steps, and cooling down courtesy of sugar-flavoured shaved ice. We go to the 1,001 intricate golden statues, housed within the Sanjusangen-do temple, and guarded by 30 carved gods, a lot of whom look livid about being there. We tour a porcelain competition, gawp on the costs for probably the most delicate of ceramics, however discover our option to bowls etched with photos of department and leaf at a value we are able to nearly afford. We even take tea with a trainee geisha known as Mameaki – a maiko in native dialect – though by this time the boys have bailed on us, defeated by the temperatures. We conclude that is no unhealthy factor. They could effectively have found her, and the formality of the tea ceremony she presides over, disconcerting. She solutions all our questions politely, however there’s something jarring a couple of younger girl of 17 who has chosen a task for herself that’s basically ornamental.

shabu-shabu hot pot

‘We try to look elegant, seated on the floor around burners of bubbling shabu-shabu hot pot.’ Photograph: Sivapon/Getty Images

Still, as nightfall falls, the entire household takes to the paved streets of Gion, the standard Geisha space, the place the alleyways teem with Japanese and Chinese vacationers wearing conventional kimonos for the day. Here each different constructing appears to be marked by a crimson lantern indicating an inn or restaurant. We queue up winding stairs for 45 minutes for intense and comforting bowls of “black” ramen, its thick stock made with charred miso. We attempt to look elegant, seated on the ground round burners of effervescent shabu-shabu scorching pot. One evening, in our personal personal tatami room, we’re served a gently poised multi-course kaiseki menu of sashimi and tempura.

Japanese ramen noodles soup

‘We queue up winding stairs for 45 minutes for intense and comforting bowls of “black” ramen, its thick stock made with charred miso.’ Photograph: FinFinz/Getty Images

Finally, we board the prepare for the cool, dappled sanctuary of Hoshinoya Fuji, a “glamping” resort on a forested hillside overlooking Mount Fuji. (Rising early one morning I even handle to catch a uncommon cloudless picture of Fuji San, because it’s identified in these elements.) Japan apparently doesn’t have a lot of a tenting tradition and albeit neither do I so the set-up fits me completely: modernist stone cabins with vast balconies the place they may serve you breakfast very first thing and, at evening, mild guttering fires.

There are “cloud platforms”, large decked areas stacked up the hillside, the place we are able to lie ingesting steaming cups of inexperienced tea. It is a much-needed restorative after the warmth and the clamour and the ringing of bells and the flashing of video arcades and the final cultural overload. One day, Eddie broadcasts, he desires to come again to Japan. Only subsequent time, with out his mum and pop.

A style of Japan: study first hand about Japanese delicacies

Sake For the definitive sake expertise, head to Niigata and its distant island, Sado, the place you possibly can speak with grasp brewers and, crucially, drink a good quantity of it, too. If visiting the 90 breweries within the space feels an excessive amount of, you possibly can all the time check out a spot of Kodō drumming on Sado island.
• From £200,

Noodles Learn the secrets and techniques of Japanese delicacies from grasp cooks at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Soba Academy. Discover how you can make your personal buckwheat soba noodles, from creating the dough to cooking the noodles in broth.
• Classes £200 for 3½ hours,

Tea Get to know your hojicha out of your matcha at a tea farm in Wazuka, Kyoto, well-known for its premium Japanese tea. As effectively as touring the tea fields, there are tasting periods and likewise the prospect to take a two-week specialist course in turning into a Japanese tea grasp.
• Tour £21,

Way to go

Jay Rayner flew to Japan with ANA. Return fares from London to Tokyo begin from £827. His travel there was organised by Inside Japan, which tailors itineraries to traveller’s particular person wants. Its 13-night Gastronomic Adventure prices from £2,430pp, together with lodging, transport and sure restaurant experiences however excluding flights. Machiya townhouses in Kyoto begin at £139 an evening. Rooms at Hoshinoya, Fuji, begin at £315 an evening.

Email Jay at [email protected] or comply with him on Twitter @jayrayner1

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