Essex rediscovered: ghosts and falcons on a rural trip | Travel

A cycle by countryside, on the path of a fantastic nature author and the elusive peregrine falcon, affords contemporary insights into Essex’s ‘dark mystery’ • Plus: 5 UK birdwatching safaris

Tease falcon … Peregrine numbers have grown since dangerous pesticides have been banned – however you continue to want luck to see them, as our creator finds.
Photograph: Mike Warburton Photography/Getty Images

I have by no means been any good at recognizing peregrines. I don’t have the knack. I constantly miss out on them amid flocks of panicking waders on the estuary, so I don’t fancy my probabilities as I pedal downhill from Danbury village on the outskirts of Chelmsford. The plan is to observe the identical route that JA Baker took when he tracked the birds throughout the Essex countryside for his traditional work of nature writing, The Peregrine (printed in 1967 however on a present shortlist, together with The Wind within the Willows and Tarka the Otter, for the UK’s best-loved nature guide).

essex map

My journey had begun with a map, printed on the tip pages of My House of Sky, the primary biography of Baker by Hetty Saunders, printed by Little Toller final 12 months. The map, which stretched from Chelmsford eastwards throughout the Dengie peninsula to the North Sea coast and had belonged to Baker, was plagued by crosses exhibiting peregrine sightings. It was an invite to find part of my native county, which Baker had written about in a approach that instilled a spot, so typically dismissed, with darkish thriller.

It is a vivid winter’s day once I cycle north from Danbury Hill. There is outdated snow by the aspect of the highway, extra within the air. I climb a stile overlooking the sheep-dotted parkland at Riffhams Manor and scan the sky in arcs, making an attempt to suppose like a peregrine as Baker instructed. Nothing after all, I haven’t but earned this hen. Baker cycled out from Chelmsford in all weathers. In my job as an ecologist, I too am out within the countryside in all weathers however hardly ever watching nature for the sake of it. I’m at all times doing, surveying bushes, inspecting farmland; the wildlife has turn into a backdrop.

Birdlife in the area has improved since DDT pesticides were banned in 1986.

Good indicators … the creator’s cycle revealed that birdlife within the space has recovered considerably since DDT pesticides have been banned in 1986.

Birdwatching was Baker’s passion, not his job. He stood for hours whereas I rush on. If I’m to see a peregrine I must quieten my thoughts, study persistence. I must cease and actually start to look.

On my Ordnance Survey map I have plotted a route between Baker’s haunts, however I quickly realise that combining biking and peregrine watching is hard. My binoculars knock in opposition to my knees as I pedal and I have to screech to a halt to scan each form that crosses the sky. It won’t be doable to cowl the realm I had deliberate out alongside the Chelmer canal to Ulting and again previous the flooded quarries north of Woodham Walter within the quick hours of a winter’s day.

The Blackwater estuary was a regular haunt of JA Baker and is a hunting ground for peregrines.

The Blackwater estuary was an everyday hang-out of JA Baker and is a searching floor for peregrines. Photograph: Alamy

I must reevaluate why I’m right here. Am I looking for Baker or Peregrines? I sense Baker’s presence on the bridleway at Grace’s Walk, standing underneath the avenue of bushes, obtrusive at me, wishing me gone. I glare again. If there’s something I perceive about this man then it’s his feral tendency. He doesn’t want to inform me something about this. I perceive the furtive nature of turning into beast, of being an oddity amongst your individual species, of wanting solitude, earth and foxhole existence. Baker is right here, within the lanes and woods and copses, however we aren’t going to talk.

I cease for lunch in a subject of winter wheat and watch flocks of pigeons leaving the woods. I wait, gulping down soup and bread. I await a peregrine whereas berating the egocentricity that leads me to consider they may seem for me as a result of I’m right here to see them. What I see as an alternative is a canine fox, vivid in winter coat. He trots, flat-eared alongside the woodland edge and heads up the lane in direction of me. He is searching, black socks and ears all a perk, for a mouse. He doesn’t know I’m right here and for a second I’m elated however then his acorn eyes lock into my binoculars and he pauses, as foxes fatally do, earlier than turning tail and trotting again into cowl.

Excellent birdwatching terrain near Danbury.

Excellent birdwatching terrain close to Danbury. Photograph: Alamy

I attain the tip of Grace’s Walk, which is now all disappointment; bushes wrecked and break up by the hedge-flailing machine, soil whipped throughout industrial-scale fields. Hedge banks burnt by the “filthy, insidious pollen of farm chemicals,” as Baker described them. No longer DDT, that thinned the eggshells and addled the brains of Baker’s peregrines, however nonetheless a cocktail of demise that has devastated insect numbers and runs off the land to pollute rivers.

Fieldfares clack alongside Hurrells Lane. The ford the place Baker’s peregrine bathed so readily 60 years in the past is flooded. A buzzard flies low alongside the sting of a subject, a hen that has returned to the Essex countryside after an absence of 50 years. It is successful story, together with the peregrines, which now nest on the reactors being decommissioned at Bradwell Power station, 20 miles away. It is an indication that nature can get well, a few of it anyway.

Fieldfare eats ashberries at rowan-tree in winterFieldfare (Turdus pilaris) at rowan-tree in winter

Fieldfares are sometimes seen within the countryside in winter, having migrated from Scandinavia and Russia. Photograph: VictorTyakht/Getty Images

I cross the ford on an embankment and draw back up the lane lit golden with low winter daylight. The highway runs with ice water and snow clings within the shaded locations. Down by the woods I trip within the failing mild, blackbirds chucking within the thorn thickets. I’ve half-forgotten my mission within the splash of wheels by puddles. Yet nonetheless, each hen buzz throughout open floor units me questioning: “Where are they now?” On the Blackwater estuary maybe with the teal and dunlin flocks. Tomorrow I’ll go there and hunt anew.

The sky is roseate with the fading solar, mellow and gentle no longer sharp-eyed because it was within the morning. I cease by a gate to look the fields one final time. A person in a automotive pulls up.

“Are you lost?” he shouts from the window. “Only I saw you earlier.”

JA Baker’s book is on a shortlist to become Britain’s favourite nature book.

JA Baker’s guide is on a shortlist to turn into Britain’s favorite nature guide. Photograph: Carol J Donaldson

I guarantee him I’m nice. He seems reluctant to depart me, not fairly believing maybe girls on a motorcycle scanning a subject with binoculars may probably be OK.

“Do you want to know anything about the area?” he tries once more.

I feel, “I want to know where the peregrines are,” however his beaming face doesn’t look as if it might probably reply that and, it’s on this second of distraction I see, within the nook of my eye, the falcon move throughout the meadow and once I flip to look at it, it’s gone.

• For info on birdwatching, go to or the Essex Birdwatching Society

The winner of the UK’s best-loved nature guide might be introduced on BBC2’s Winter Watch, which begins on 29 January. The 50th-anniversary version of The Peregrine is printed by William Collins at £12.99. To order a replica for £11.04, with free UK p&p, go to

UK birdwatching safaris

Songs of nightingales, Sussex
Knepp, a three,500-acre rewilding undertaking close to Horsham in West Sussex, has one of many largest nightingale populations within the UK. The spring nightingale safaris embody dinner with wine, a chat concerning the birds and a late-night sortie in a 4WD to take heed to their lovely track.
• 5, 12 and 19 May, 9-12pm, £70,

Eagles and osprey, Scotland

An osprey plucks a fish from a lake in the Cairngorms.

An osprey plucks a fish from a lake within the Cairngorms. Photograph: FLPA/Alamy

Guests can count on to see golden eagles and osprey on this safari from Aviemore to distant components of the Highlands, together with crested tits, crossbills, dippers and divers. Most of the journey is by jeep, however there’s some hillwalking, too.
• Year-round, £12 an hour for adults and £6 for kids (minimal of 4 hours),

Winter wildfowl, Northumberland
Explore the Northumberland coast and island of Lindisfarne on this winter safari, which begins in Alnwick, recognizing pale-bellied brent geese, bar-tailed godwits, sandpipers and different birds that like mudflats, marshes and coastal rocks.
• 22 February, 15 & 29 March, £60,

Birding discovery days, Yorkshire

The UK’s short-eared owl population increases in winter as migrants arrive from northern Europe.

The UK’s short-eared owl inhabitants will increase in winter as migrants arrive from northern Europe. Photograph: Major Wildlife/Alamy

The coast, moors, wolds and forests in North and East Yorkshire present habitats for short-eared owls (winter), honey buzzards (summer season) and northern goshawks (all 12 months spherical). This full-day safari begins in Seamer, close to Scarborough.
• Next excursions 25 February and eight April, £55,

Hunt for raptors, Snowdonia
Stops on this one-day raptor safari in Snowdonia embody a pine forest, to seek for goshawks, sparrowhawks and buzzards; a valley, to search for peregrines and purple kites; a moor, with hen harriers, merlin and purple grouse; and a lake the place osprey elevate their chicks.
• Year-round, £120 for 2, together with lunch,

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