Sham Shui Po has lengthy been a working-class district of Hong Kong. This humble space hides an intriguing press of markets, retailers, stalls, eateries – and, inevitably, a contact of hipster resurgence.
We begin our wander with that almost all Hong Kong of meals: a bowl of noodles. There are only a few eating places in Hong Kong that make their very own any extra, and there are fewer nonetheless that make it the old school manner, by kneading the dough with a bamboo pole. At Lau Sum Kee Noodle (48 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po), proprietor Lau Fat-cheong makes them contemporary every single day utilizing this method. He balances on the top of a big bamboo pole, bouncing up and right down to knead his springy, al dente noodles. The home specialties are the wonton soup noodles, or noodles tossed with dried shrimp roe.
Lau Fat-cheong makes noodles within the old school manner. Photograph: Dale de la Rey/AFP/Getty Images
Suitably fortified, we’re heading into the maze that’s the Golden Shopping Centre (Golden Building, 146-152 Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui Po). Time was, this constructing was stuffed filled with shops promoting pirated software program and DVDs. Every so usually the shout would go up and also you’d be hustled out of the shop, the shutters would clang down behind you, and some seconds later a policeman would wander previous. These days, the arcade is much extra official, promoting an enormous vary of tech, video video games and equipment.
But should you’re searching for a real electronics cut price, head straight for the Apliu Street flea market. This strip of open-air avenue stalls is a goldmine, promoting transistors and resistors, classic cameras, glowing lengths of LED lights, second-hand energy instruments and pre-owned TV remotes. Behind the principle strip, retailers stock every part from multimeters and tripods to night-vision goggles and pen cameras.
Paul Au has devoted his total home to vinyl LPs
Just above Ap Liu Street, Paul Au runs his vinyl fiefdom. He’s not just a bit into LPs. He loves them a lot that his total home is devoted them, on the expense of just about every part else. The 28 sq. metres (300 sq ft) that make up Au’s flat/store Vinyl Hero (Flat D, 5/F Wai Hong Building, 239 Cheung Sha Wan Road) comprise some 400,000 data, stacked as much as the ceiling. Go able to hunt, and also you’re certain to discover a gem. Do name forward earlier than you make a home go to.
Head down the highway looking for Chan Cheuk-ming, higher often known as “Brother Ming”. The proprietor of the standard Pei Ho Counterparts (278 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po) is a Sham Shui Po superstar. Brother Ming isn’t famed for his meals, however his charity. For years now he’s been handing out free meals to the impoverished and homeless of the district. Grab an power enhance within the type of a basic Hong Kong-style French toast: two slices of bread which are egged, deep fried, and served with an enormous pat of butter and a wholesome drizzle of golden syrup. Then pay it ahead by shopping for a meal or two extra for somebody in want.
Chan Cheuk-ming’s charitable actions have made him a Sham Shui Po superstar
Sham Shui Po is the centre of the town’s materials commerce, with streets lined with retailers promoting bolts of each type of materials and material below the solar. Just down the highway, Alri Star Leather Factory retains the district’s heritage alive with a hipster contact. You can purchase leathers of every kind right here, and likewise the punches, cutters and burnishers you’ll have to go from conceal to selfmade artisanal items. Lacking the time or the inclination? Alri additionally sells handmade, and already accomplished, leather-based items – as does Brothers Leathercraft just a few retailers down.
Afterwards drop by Common Room and Co, a community-minded mixture artwork gallery, bookstore, maker-space and occasional store, or Cafe Sausalito for one thing single-origin and cold-brewed.
Time for an additional chew – essentially the most well-known of our route. When chef Mak Kwai Pui left the Four Seasons resort in Hong Kong, he determined it was time for a change from fine-dining Cantonese fare. And so in 2009 he opened Tim Ho Wan, a humble 20-seater restaurant serving on a regular basis dim sum with a twist of approach. It picked up a Michelin star a yr later, and has been broadly touted because the world’s most cost-effective Michelin-starred restaurant. That means the queues are usually lengthy, however not less than they’re value it: particularly for chef Mak’s invention, the baked char siu bao: mushy, candy, baked buns stuffed with tender roast pork.
Apliu Street is home to ribbons and materials of each type. Photograph: Alamy
On the best way to dessert, cease by close by Bo Wah Paper Effigies (2C Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po). In Cantonese tradition, the residing burn paper choices for his or her ancestors. These can vary from prayer papers to paper forex and indulgent effigies of paper homes, clothes or automobiles. At Bo Wah, custom will get an replace, due to the younger Au Yeung Ping-chi, who has common paper representations of large robots, fishing rods and scuba gear. After all, nobody mentioned the afterlife needed to be boring.
Grab a candy chew at Kung Wo Beancurd Factory (118 Pei Ho Street, Sham Shui Po), which has barely modified since opening right here within the 60s. In the doorway, cubes of tofu sizzle away on massive pans. Inside, the packed tables make it clear this restaurant is a Hong Kong favorite. Order the aromatic, candy and easy dou fu fa (tofu pudding).
Last of all, head up the highway for a reminder of the previous within the neo-classical colonial edifice that was as soon as the North Kowloon Magistracy. It’s an imposing courthouse edifice that appears solely misplaced on this humble district: however what higher manner for the town’s rulers to impress their energy on the populace? These days, although, the constructing is the Hong Kong base of the Savannah College of Art and Design, higher often known as SCAD. A delicate conservation effort has earned the positioning a Unesco nod: one courtroom and a jail cell have been preserved, and the college is open to the general public by twice-daily excursions.