There comes a degree in life when your youngsters begin to discover excuses to not travel with you any extra. Maddy (15) was fairly diplomatic about it. “Dad, I’m not keen on mountain biking. I don’t think I’ll come, thanks.” But I used to be decided to get her to hitch me in Sweden; I like her company. So I did what any accountable father or mother would do in an identical scenario: I lied. “Did I say ‘mountain biking’? It’s much more about wild swimming.”
I did really feel a twinge of guilt, however to be trustworthy, in terms of travel all of us deceive our youngsters. It begins with, “Not far now,” develops into “There’s a chocolate fairy on top of that mountain,” and ends with fabulous wild swims (on bikes).
We arrive in Åre within the coronary heart of Jämtland, the area beside the Norwegian border famend for its wild forests, to remain on the Holiday Club for an evening. It has an important pool and slide. Maddy thinks I deliberate it, however really I had no concept. Everything goes swimmingly. In the afternoon I lure Maddy out to the ski lifts the place there’s a information, Jesper, who goes to show us to downhill bike experience appropriately (1½-hour coaching from £15, day rental £73, areguiderna.se). Jesper makes all of it sound straightforward: “One finger on each brake lever. Relax your arms.”
The ski lifts have particular bike racks and sweep us up the mountain behind Åre. Maddy tackles a inexperienced run, then a blue (bike trails are graded like ski runs: inexperienced, blue, crimson and black. Green is simple; black just isn’t). She manages each with ease. Bicycling with out pedalling is a doddle. “It was all right,” she admits. “Can we go back to the pool?”
Fjällstation mountain lodge
Next day we shift 40km south to the tiny village of Vålådalen, the place there’s Fjällstation mountain lodge (bikes £46 a day, doubles from £67, with half-board £150), run by English-Swedish duo Andy and Hanna. We discover Andy contained in the bike cafe. “Kevin! Maddy! Ready for some serious biking?”
Maddy shoots a black take a look at me, but it surely misses and as a substitute buries itself in a jar of home made brownies on the cafe counter. There are different distractions: the country, idiosyncratic attraction of the big handmade wood constructing, plus a set of out of doors sizzling tubs and a sauna. In winter it is a favorite coaching location for cross-country ski groups, however in summer season the hikers and bikers take over. “We used to get around a thousand visitors all summer,” says Andy, “but now that the blue lake is becoming famous, we’re up to around 16,000.”
“A blue lake?” Maddy’s curiosity is piqued.
“The Blanktjärn is fed by underground springs that pass through chalk. The result is a rich blue water. You shouldn’t miss it.”
The wealthy blue waters of Blankttjärn Lake
In the meantime, Andy sends us out in kayaks on a close-by lake (£25 a day). Next day the plan is to cycle a number of miles to a lake, paddle throughout in a canoe, wild camp and fish. But Maddy flatly refuses to get on the bike. “I want to stay at the lodge. Dad, I need hot tubs.” Andy and Hanna are blissful to regulate her, so I pack the bike and set off.
The trails right here are usually not steep, however the problem is within the spongs, slim planks set throughout boggy sections. Fjällstation’s bikes, nonetheless, are geared up to manage: full suspension, big tyres and a handlebar swap that drops the saddle out of hurt’s means for bouncy sections. The lodge retains a small fleet of canoes on Nulltjärn lake and, after parking the bike towards a tree, I set out, paddling throughout a darkish mirror of water surrounded by forested mountains and snowy peaks. I spend an hour or two fishing, catching trout and char on a spinner, however releasing them: there is no such thing as a risk of cooking – the dry situations imply even gasoline stoves are forbidden. Instead I’m carrying beneficiant provides of chilly cuts provided by the Fjällstation kitchen.
The author wild tenting on Nulltjärn
I pitch my tent in a clump of pine bushes, and collect cloudberries and bilberries. The Swedes have an exquisite idea known as allemansrätten och naturens skafferi, “everyman’s right and nature’s pantry”. The countryside is open to anybody. I had feared I would grow to be a part of the pantry too – there are midges – however I don’t want the top web Andy has lent me.
At 5am subsequent day I slip the canoe out and catch an Arctic char. This one I’ll hold. Jenny, the chef at Fjällstation, had promised to cook dinner one if I obtained fortunate. I cycle again, drop the fish within the fridge and rouse Maddy. What in regards to the Blue Lake? “Walking will take three hours,” says Andy, over espresso within the bike cafe, “or an hour on bikes.”
Maddy tackling an enormous hill on the best way to Blankttjärn
His psychology is spot on. Maddy borrows Hanna’s superior fats bike, buoyed by the data that its proprietor was a world championship medallist. Our route is crimson – fairly a problem – with lengthy spongs and steep, tough sections stuffed with boulders the scale of an offended teenager’s head. “It’s like science at school,” Maddy says. “I can do it, but don’t like it.”
Finally we push up a steep ridge and under us the Blanktjärn seems, a startling turquoise. The water temperature can be breathtaking: sudden upswells of freezing water adopted by temporary patches of solar-heated heat. Underwater, even with out goggles, I’m astounded by the visibility and color. We float in blue. Around us for miles there are solely forests and snow-streaked mountains.
“When I found this area,” Andy instructed me, “I knew I’d come home. I never want to leave.” I do know precisely what he means.
• The journey was supplied by Visit Sweden. Holiday Club Åre has doubles from £120 an evening B&B. EasyJet flies from Gatwick and Bristol to Ostersund/Åre from December to the tip of March. At different instances, fly to Trondheim (with Norwegian from Gatwick) and drive, take a practice or bus to Åre (167km)