Peaks and troughs: biking and consuming in Austria’s Tyrol | Travel

From the second I step off the airplane in Innsbruck, mountains dominate the view. Mighty and majestic, they instil a twinge of pleasure (combined with dread) once I think about being up amongst them on two wheels.

It will definitely make for a powerful backdrop subsequent week, when greater than 1,000 skilled cyclists descend on Tyrol, western Austria, for the Road World Championships. After occasions within the US, Qatar and Norway in recent times, the annual UCI (Union Cycliste International) race is coming to the Herz der Alpen (coronary heart of the Alps) – a slogan used on the postersall over the area.

Austria cycle

I’m heading to the Ötztal valley, which can be within the highlight when it hosts the beginning of the crew time trial. Home to the annual Ötztaler Radmarathon, a one-day beast that covers 238km with altitude modifications of 5,500 metres, it’s an space recognized for robust, lengthy climbs.

As thrilling as racing across the area can be for the professionals, taking within the lovely surroundings and tradition gained’t be a serious concern for these involved with occasions and positions. I have no such expectations heaped upon me and am free as a hen to find extra of what these mountains have to supply, and maintain an eye fixed out for tempting pit stops en route.

Hooves and hairpins … Goats on the Timmelsjoch highway. Photograph: Alamy

My plan is to soak up a couple of of the favored highway biking routes, which concentrate on iconic climbs such because the Ötztal Glacier Road (13.5km at 10.5%) and Timmelsjoch (28.7km at 6%), from my base of Sölden, as soon as a distant farming village and now better-known for a thriving ski scene in winter and intensive mountain biking and climbing trails in summer season. Then I’ll descend into the Inn valley, which runs east alongside the River Inn in direction of the capital of the area, following the time trial route, earlier than gently winding off on a 50km culinary route close by, following a vacationer board leaflet itemizing 25 locations famous for his or her gastronomic choices.

Around an hour’s drive from Innsbruck, Sölden is deep within the Ötz valley, near the Italian border. I meet my driving associate for the day, skilled mountain biker Fabian Costa, within the cafe of the cyclist-orientated Bäckelar Wirt resort, the place I’m staying. He’s right here to point out me a few of his favorite routes however can be busy coaching for his debut within the Ötztaler Radmarathon. As we sip espresso and look out on the rain lashing down, Fabian raises an eyebrow and asks if I nonetheless wish to journey. The UK is within the grip of a heatwave whereas I’m sitting right here searching at “British weather”. Fortunately, whereas I’m shopping for time attempting the favored Tyrolean dish of kaspressknödel (cheese dumplings), the climate clears and we head out into sensible sunshine.

There aren’t any pure circuits within the valley, Fabian says: lots of the roads lead nowhere, and to do a loop would imply leaving the valley and re-entering, which is just advisable for the strongest riders. One round loop from Sölden, which takes within the 2,474-metre Timmelsjoch cross and ski resort Kühtai in addition to Innsbruck, means spending 15 hours within the saddle, over two days.

There is no shortage of pitstops with scenic views.

There is not any scarcity of pitstops with scenic views. Photograph: Getty Images

For my first Alpine outing on the bike we’re retaining issues a bit easier, with a 40km journey in direction of the picturesque village of Vent (and again) . The very first thing I discover as we wind our approach alongside the graceful roads, jagged rock face to 1 aspect, sweeping views throughout lush meadows and pine bushes to the opposite, is that though the roads look deceptively flat, I quickly discover myself working out of gears. “A 5% gradient is a flat here,” smiles Fabian, biking casually beside me.

We journey previous waterfalls, catching their cool nice spray, whereas cowsdisturbed from their grazinglift their heads to stare, their bells tinkling. From Vent we check out a small winding climbthat brings us to a picturesque dead finish within the tiny village of Rofen, the place hikers are having fun with the flower-decked terrace of a Tyrolean farmhouse restaurant.

As we head again in direction of Sölden after a brief relaxation I’m beginning to really feel adventurous and persuade Fabian style of the Timmelsjoch excessive alpine highway would spherical our break day properly. At 28.7km in size, with 1,760 vertical metres at a mean gradient of round 6% (most 14%), this cross finally results in Italy. We don’t fairly make it so far as the border, stopping as a substitute on the tollbooth, the place it flattens out briefly. The 16km slog, damaged with a quick cease to fill our bottles at a gushing waterfall, has delivered the taster I used to be after. After taking within the dramatic panorama from the viewing platform, we’re again on our bikes and dashing down the climbs I had beforehand inched my approach up.

Above the clouds at Kühtai

Above the clouds at Kühtai

“For cycling, this is a good place but you need to be really fit,” says Stefan Kirchmair, who I meet later within the week for a cycle round Innsbruck. Stefan, a former skilled racer, gained the Ötztaler Radmarathon in 2011 and 2012, so is aware of the valley’s challenges higher than most. He now presents teaching companies and coaching camps for newbie riders.

The morning after the Sölden journey, Fabian and I descend out of the Ötz valley, heading north: it’s an exhilarating hour-longride, however makes me recognize how straightforward the professionals make hairpins look. We cease at Space47 (, Europe’s largest journey park, for espresso and quite substantial pretzels within the out of doors cafe. Next week, the elite riders can be right here warming up for his or her crew time trial, however for now thrill-seekers might be noticed tackling the excessive ropes and 17-metre water leap. Mountain bikers can be a part of guided excursions of routes ranging from Space47, whisking riders and their bikes up in a gondola earlier than they set off on an exhilarating mixture of trails.

High above Sölden.

High above Sölden. Photograph: Tirol Werbung/Bram de Vrind

On our highway bikes, we head out on to the quick and flat time trial course. After yesterday’s biking within the mountains, it appears outrageously straightforward. At the gorgeous village of Silz, we meander in direction of our first cease on the culinary biking route: a farm belonging to award-winning honey producer Heinrich Gritsch. Visitors can drop by the farmhouse for excursions and tastings, and when he’s not round, there’s an honesty field for anybody who needs to select up a jar of mountain blossom honey to take home.

After one other kilometre, we activate to a cycle path that sweeps up previous fields of maize, radishes and potatoes, and thru quaint villages. Among the fruit orchards and flowers of the Mair household’s Beerengarten (berry backyard) simply exterior the village of Rietz, we pattern deliciously refreshing sorbet made with thefruits this native household establishment is famend for.


Silz. Photograph: Alamy

We cycle lazily alongside the River Inn to our subsequent cease, Kattler’s Hofladen (farm store) within the riverside village of Oberhofen. This tiny deli promoting freshly baked breads, ham, cheeses infused with herbs, terrines and yoghurts is a well-liked spot with locals. It’s solely open two days every week, and queues snake out of the door as folks purchase merchandise lovingly made by Manuela Fritz and the remainder of her household.

As we cycle off, stomachs full, I take into consideration one thing a neighborhood bicycle owner, with 40 years’ expertise of driving the world’s trails, advised me earlier. “The mountains shape our way of life,” he stated.

Having tasted delicacies of the world, infused all through by the panorama that produced them and having ridden the highs and lows of the mountains, I feel he has summed it up completely.

At a look: Tyrol

Bäckelar Wirt hotel.

A room at Bäckelar Wirt resort

Flights, lodging, transfers and bike rent have been supplied by the Tirol vacationer board and Innsbruck vacationer board. Bäckelar Wirt resort has doubles from €105 room solely. It features a spa and a motorcycle storage room.

How to do it

A sprint finish at last year’s championships. won by Peter Sagan (white top).

A dash end ultimately 12 months’s championships. gained by Peter Sagan (white high). Photograph: Tim de Waele/Corbis through Getty Images

This 12 months’s Road World Championship is in Tyrol from 22-30 September. Last 12 months the lads’s race was gained by Peter Sagan. Details of the routes at The Ötztaler Radmarathon is on the finish of August most years and entry is by poll. Information concerning the culinary biking route at Road bikes might be employed from Sport Brugger in Sölden or Die Börse in Innsbruck.

Getting there
Easyjet flies to Innsbruck from Bristol, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester, and British Airways from Heathrow, each from about £85 return.

Looking for a holiday with a distinction? Browse Guardian Holidays to discover a vary of improbable journeys

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