There are extra bakers and butchers than nightclubs and nail bars in Sainte-Maxime, simply north of Saint-Tropez in Provence’s Var département. And vibrant fishing boats land the day’s catch proper on the harbour.
Less ritzy than a lot of its Côte d’Azur neighbours, this small city has an unflashy life-style suited much less to movie stars than to the saint it’s named after. Maxime was a daughter of a ninth-century Count of Grasse, who rejected his wealth, turned her again on her household and took herself off to close by Callian, the place she based a convent. A portray within the stark, native church exhibits her refusing a coffer of gold.
Opposite the church is the Tour Carrée, Sainte-Maxime’s solely actual historic monument, a fortified blockhouse inbuilt 1520 to defend the coast in opposition to Saracen pirates. Today, it’s a museum of native historical past (open 3pm-6pm Wed-Sun, grownup €three).
On the defensive … the church and Tour Carrée in Saint-Maxime. Photograph: Gérard Tournebize
Sainte-Maxime remained a tiny port all through the 18th century: wine, olive oil, greens and cork from the Maures forest had been loaded on to tartanes (small crusing vessels) and shipped alongside the coast. The buying and selling port has now been changed by a marina with 800 moorings.
Just behind the marina, the traffic-free Promenade Aymeric Simon-Lorière, shaded by pines, palms and cacti, results in a gravel and sand seashore. There are boules courts (floodlit for evenings), with balls to rent from an on-site hut. A game prices simply €2 (€three on Wednesday and Saturday).
The seafront has the same old phone-case and beachwear retailers, interspersed with bars and brasseries. Café Maxime on Avenue Charles de Gaulleis all the time heaving with holidaymakers, and for good motive – the salads are big and recent, and beneficiant sharing boards of charcuterie price €12. Back in direction of the marina, on the sting of the of the newly cobbledstreets of the previous city, Café de France has been there since 1852, when Sainte-Maxime was nonetheless a fishing village. Old pictures on its partitions present fishing nets drying exterior. Today it has an outside terrace, jazz nights and a two-course lunch for €14 – a cut price on the French Riviera.
Le Bistrot de Louis
Le Bistrot de Louis on slim place Colbert is one other favorite: its three-course menu du bistro (€26) is definitely worth the cash: faultless fish soup, sea bream filet and a dame blanche (vanilla ice-cream, whipped cream and chocolate sauce). For much less formal consuming attempt Le Porche, in a medieval archway off rue d’Alsace, which does burgers of a number of varieties for round €11.50, with chips and salad.
On summer time evenings, the streets round Place du Marché come alive with the stalls promoting jewelry, straw hats and provençal lavender soaps. There’s stay music and locals hang around across the stone lavoir – the previous public laundry – consuming ice-cream. The indoor morning market deserves a browse too – decide up cheese, fruit and rotisserie rooster or indulge within the oyster bar on the again.
Plage de la Nartelle, just a few kilometres north of Sainte-Maxime. Photograph: Gérard Tournebize
For the most effective seashore motion, comply with the coast street east and north, previous big parasol pines and gated villas, to Plage de la Nartelle, 2km of sand with parasols and water sports activities. Beside the street sit the rusted stays of an amphibious Sherman tank used within the Allied landings on 15 August 1944. Damaged by a German land mine, the tank remained buried below the sand till a storm in 2011, and has since been part-restored. French resistance fighters in Sainte-Maxime had been knowledgeable of the landings by two coded messages transmitted by the BBC in London: “Nancy a le torticolis” (Nancy has a stiff neck) and “Le chef est affamé” (The chef is famished).
A bit additional up the coast is Plage Les Eléphants, a skinny strip of sand named for Jean and Cécile de Brunhoff’s Babar youngsters’s books. The couple had a home right here within the 1930s and the bay impressed Jean as an example Babar’s balloon-trip honeymoon with Celeste in The Travels of Babar (1937). The seaside villa is now in personal arms however there are bungalows to lease on close by campsite Les Cigalons (from €290 per week).
Bateaux Verts hyperlink Sainte-Maxime with flashier, fleshier Saint-Tropez
Whichever seashore you’re on, the view throughout the gulf is of the flesh-coloured facades of Saint-Tropez. Ferries operated by Les Bateaux Verts run to the resort each 15 minutes from Sainte-Maxime marina. Visitors think about they’ll spend the day in Saint-Tropez, however three hours might be sufficient time to observe the superyachts coming out and in, go to the Annonciade artwork museum and wander the slim streets.
Saint-Tropez may be intense in the summertime. Its tanned, pampered denizens parade round in a uniform of glowing white seashore tunics, macramé bikinis and pastel shorts, their hair swept again and a raffia basket slung over one slender, tanned arm. Copycats arrive on shiny motorbikes or in open-top sports activities vehicles, however they’re straightforward to identify – shabby St-Trop is a tough look to drag off.
Sainte-Maxime could also be Saint-Tropez’s much less showy little sister nevertheless it nonetheless has the texture of a cultured riviera resort: it has its personal on line casino and, as elsewhere, males may be fined €38 for going shirtless away from the seashore. It’s refreshing to search out such an unpretentious base on this stretch of coast – however enjoyable to have the ability to dip into the close by glitz too.
• Accommodation was offered by Restanques du Carré Beauchêne (summerfrance.co.uk), which has villas with personal pool sleeping seven from £1,088 per week. Easyjet flies to Nice from seven UK airports
Looking for a holiday with a distinction? Browse Guardian Holidays to discover a vary of implausible journeys
This article accommodates affiliate hyperlinks, which implies we might earn a small fee if a reader clicks via and makes a purchase order. All our journalism is impartial and is under no circumstances influenced by any advertiser or industrial initiative.
The hyperlinks are powered by Skimlinks. By clicking on an affiliate hyperlink, you settle for that Skimlinks cookies will probably be set. More data.